True or False Diamond? Understanding the Debate Around Lab-Grown Stones
The diamond world is divided: natural vs. lab-grown. Though visually identical, their origin stories, environmental impact, symbolism, and perceived value have sparked years of industry debate.
As of February 2024, the French Ministry of Economy ruled that the term “lab-grown diamond” is misleading. The only authorized terms are “synthetic diamond” or “man-made diamond,” since synthetic diamonds often include more than just carbon and are not formed by nature. Some professionals argue that the two types are indistinguishable to the eye, while others, like Mina El Hadraoui (Director of the Natural Diamond Council France), see them as entirely separate products that serve different markets—one born of the Earth, the other of industrial process.
Natural diamonds are created over 1 to 3 billion years deep underground, while synthetic diamonds are made in a matter of weeks using high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) systems or chemical vapor deposition (CVD). As Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, co-founder of Courbet, explains, one is made by nature, the other by human design. Even gemologists often can’t tell the difference without equipment.
Supporters of synthetic diamonds highlight their lower environmental footprint—no mining, no destruction of ecosystems, no excessive water use. The controlled environment also allows for near-perfect purity. However, critics note that synthetic production is energy-intensive and often powered by non-renewable electricity. Defenders of natural diamonds emphasize their potential for upcycling: natural stones are rarely discarded, often passed down or reset, and valued as heirlooms rather than consumables.
In terms of value, natural diamonds remain rare and finite, which helps retain their price. With global diamond mining having peaked in 2005 and natural supply shrinking, their scarcity is only increasing. Synthetic diamonds, however, can be reproduced endlessly, which has caused their market value to fall by up to 80% in recent years.
Beyond rarity, the natural diamond industry supports over 10 million jobs globally, including 1.5 million artisanal miners in regions like Botswana and India. Supporters of synthetic stones argue that lower material costs encourage creativity—designs like Unsaid’s Bubble cut, for example, would be too costly in traditional high jewelry.
At Rosa Maïtea, we choose a third path: recycled natural diamonds. They carry all the brilliance and symbolism of mined diamonds, without the environmental cost or industrial impact. No extraction. No compromise. Just beauty with a story—and a conscience.
Because true brilliance lies not only in the sparkle, but in the story it carries.
So—true or false diamond?
“In the end, it all comes down to values,” says Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, who encourages us not to pit synthetic and natural diamonds against each other. “Each has its audience and its market,” she concludes.
At Rosa Maïtea, our diamonds are natural and recycled. To help you understand what makes this choice so meaningful, we’ve written an article exploring the ethical and environmental differences between diamond types—and why recycling is the most conscious path forward.
Because the future of love deserves brilliance with integrity.